“– Holidays? Where?
– On Masuria!”
This is the most common answer we hear, which begins stories of exciting cruises, unforgettable nights in taverns with local bands like O.K.A.W., Sztorm or Załoga Dr Bryga. Masuria also attracts camping enthusiasts and those who love sleeping under the stars, for whom sausages only taste good when roasted over a campfire on a hand-whittled stick. Fortunately for such adventurers, camping spots for tents and campervans are growing in number with every season.
Masuria itself is a story of the native Masurians…
The indigenous inhabitants of this region are known as carefree, optimistic and warm-hearted people who loved music and dance. Sadly, few of them remain, but the history they left behind can be seen in folk costumes, everyday objects and even old wooden cottages they once inhabited. Keen students and teachers will have the chance to step into a one-room village school.
The place where you can travel back to a 19th-century village and observe the daily life of the Masurians is the Cultural Settlement in Kadzidłowo, listed as a historic monument. To learn more about the history of the indigenous inhabitants, it is also worth visiting the Masurian Regional Heritage Room in Marcinkowo.
Faith was sacred:
An integral part of life for the native Masurians was their faith – they are said to have been devoutly religious, and some even believed in various superstitions. However, few people know that a true Masurian was a Lutheran. This was because Grand Master Albrecht Hohenzollern introduced Lutheranism to East Prussia in 1525, following the dissolution of the Teutonic Order. Historic monuments that have survived to this day include the Lutheran Church in the centre of Giżycko at Plac Grunwaldzki, built in 1689, and the Lutheran church in Mrągowo from 1734. One must also not forget the Holy Trinity Church in Mikołajki, designed by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel in the 16th century, whose treasury holds a historic communion chalice from 1772.
Something to eat?
Let us pause for a moment and sit down at the table – such an exciting adventure has surely worked up your appetite. Masurian cuisine is famous for its unique diversity, shaped by history. It is hard to say exactly where it originates, but its roots are traced to German, Russian, Lithuanian and even Mazovian dishes. It is certainly characterised by its simplicity and distinctive flavour, which can surprise many a food lover. Although the dishes are made from readily available ingredients such as flour, eggs and potatoes, their taste and the regional atmosphere make them truly one of a kind. An added charm for food enthusiasts is that chefs use local herbs such as juniper and rosemary to capture the spirit of the region as faithfully as possible.
For those who are unsure, we suggest starting with plińce z pomoćką – potato pancakes layered with bacon, served with a dip made from cottage cheese, garlic, chives and onion, topped with a sour cream-based sauce. Perhaps after that you will be tempted to try karmuska, a soup of Polish-German origin. This surprising soup combines both traditions and is prepared on a meat broth base with cream, meat and herbs, but what makes it truly remarkable is the addition of cabbage and beans. Do not worry – there is plenty for fish lovers too. Masuria is the Land of the Great Lakes, so all you need to do is visit a local fish fry shop to treat your palate to traditionally fried freshwater fish, such as the vendace (stynka), which is very hard to find outside this region. Do not forget about the zander, trout and eel, which are famous for their distinctive and unique flavour. The adventurous should be sure to try the fish soup and pike bake!
I could write endlessly about the treasures of Masurian cuisine, but I prefer to leave the undiscovered for you to discover. Now, rested and well-fed, let us continue on our way. As you may recall from the beginning of our journey, the Masurian lands were once East Prussia, and only after the arrival of the Teutonic Knights did they become Monastic Prussia. But that is just the beginning of the story… After long years of intermittent wars, a truce was agreed, and the subject of the treaty was the Duchy of Prussia, which became a Polish fief. The vassal in 1525 was Albrecht Hohenzollern, but the history of this land does not end there. Relics of those centuries can be admired in the buildings that remain, such as the Teutonic Castle in Ostróda, where Napoleon Bonaparte later quartered his troops. Since we have mentioned the Emperor of France, it was based on the experiences of General Grolmann and Von Boyen during the Napoleonic Wars that the plans for the Boyen Fortress were drawn up – a fortress you can visit in Giżycko.
An important chapter in the history of Masuria is also the wartime period. When discussing World War II, Auschwitz immediately comes to mind. However, it was on Masuria that further events shaping Poland’s fate took place. Hidden deep in the forest, concealed from the rest of the world, lay Adolf Hitler’s secret headquarters, from which the dictator made key decisions for the Third Reich. This place, located in Gierłoż, is known as the Wolf’s Lair (Wolfsschanze). It was a complex of shelters, barracks and bunkers. Thanks to proper preservation of the site, we can now explore these remains without restriction. To learn about the Wehrmacht High Command, a good idea is to venture deep into the forest in Mamry, near Węgorzewo. This was the main headquarters of the German Ground Forces “Mauerwald”, and today it houses a museum. Those hungry for adventure may have already thought of pitching a tent there, which is possible as there is a camp
site and a beach.
While strolling through the local town forests, you can easily stumble upon moss-covered or partially submerged German bunkers. So even during a relaxing walk, you will brush up against the edges of history. Who knows – perhaps when you set off on a cruise aboard a yacht rented from a Masurian charter company, your adventure will end with a search for the lost Amber Room?
Masuria is such a mysterious and fascinating region that it is impossible to walk past old, ancient forests and historic buildings without wondering what they have witnessed. So be sure to stop for a moment and follow the trail of history to a local museum to hear their stories. Our adventure ends here, but the real one will only begin on Masuria – see you there!